Dermaplaning: At Home vs Professional Treatment…Let’s Chat!

So lets first start off with what is Dermaplaning? Most clients that come into the salon I have spoken to using the tinkle razors at home are under the assumption dermaplaning is just a hair removal service. That is not at all the case! Dermaplaning, no matter at home or in the treatment room, is a skin exfoliation service! So let’s chat about each option, benefits and downfalls, because they are not the same!

Left: Tinkle razor, can be purchased at the drug store/online Right: Sterile dermaplane blade, used by professionals

At Home Dermaplaning

When you dermaplane at home you are using something similar to what is pictured above. This tool seems to have many benefits, however if it is used improperly can cause more harm than good for your skin. So first lets talk benefits of at home dermaplaning.

For some it can be a more cost-effective option, packs of 3-8 can be found anywhere from $5 - $15 at any drug store. It is convenient and it is quick to do in your skincare routine. Similar to professional treatments these blades are one use and should be thrown away after using. Another benefit is it gives a similar result to the professional treatment! Your skin appears smoother, there’s minimal/no peach fuzz, you get a light form of exfoliation and your makeup will apply smoother than before!

It all sounds great when we talk only the benefits right? However there are some pretty major downfalls when it come to at home dermaplaning. The biggest is due to the serrated edge on the tinkle razor that can cause a higher chance of micro tears (the cuts you can’t see but cause big problems). Micro tears compromise your skin barrier which result in a whole slew of issues: dryness, stinging, burning, sensitivity, redness, acne. In conjunction with the potential of micro tears, you can knick or cut the skin which can cause an issue of skin infection if not taken care of properly. This tends to only be an issue in the case of misusing the razor. Misuse comes from using it multiple times without cleaning/disinfecting them. While this thankfully doesn’t always result in any adverse effects it is very possible it can. Reuse can cause a buildup of bacteria that you are then putting on your clean skin, or if you cut yourself into your bloodstream. Now, while it is serious and sounds scary I am not saying ‘if you at home dermaplane you’ll ruin your skin’ because the hope is none of this happens to you! However, it is a risk you are taking each time you choose to dermaplane at home. Another common issue I have noticed with at home dermaplaning is it is done way too frequently because it is viewed as only a hair removal service. In reality every time it is used you are exfoliating your skin. Over exfoliation can also cause that irritation, redness, and sensitivity that takes longer to heal than it does to cause it. This should only be done at home maximum every other week.

While there are many problems that can arise from dermaplaning at home if it is done safely and with care there is no reason why it cannot work for you. BUT, will it give you the same results as a professional treatment? Keep reading to find out!

Professional Dermaplaning

This treatment has quickly become one of my favorites not only to perform but to have done on myself as well. So let’s chat about the benefits of this professional treatment!

Using a sterile scalpel removes 2-3 layers of dead skin cells leaving the skin appearing brighter and smoother. While yes, the skin is also left free of peach-fuzz this service is much more than a close shave. Due to the advanced exfoliation of this service your collagen production is boosted helping give a more youthful appearance overtime, minimizing appearance of age spots and fine lines (Deeper wrinkles are better targeted with different treatments such as LED, nanoinfusion, or chemical peels…but we’ll talk about those more in later posts). The diminishing age spots is a result of the exfoliation from this service. It also helps with PIH or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation which is a result of acne/injury to the skin. There are some pretty great benefits from the professional treatment that you can’t get with dermaplaning at-home. But what are some of the risks with the professional treatment?

This treatment can cause temporary redness and sensitivity due to the scraping motion of the blade. Some people feel tingles and sensitivity for up to 24 hours after the service, then returns to normal. This service can be harmful if a client has any inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, grade III/IV acne, or present sunburn. Most estheticians will refuse a service if any of these conditions are present, however some allow you to sign a continuation of service form to receive the treatment at your own risk. However it is important to note that serious scarring, sensitivity, or injury can be done to the skin if you as a client chooses to proceed with a service that is not recommend for your present skin condition. Another risk receiving this service is acquiring acne post treatment. This is actually a very common occurrence after dermaplaning and is very normal. What happens is that acne was just under the surface of the skin and the extra exfoliation made it come to the surface sooner than it would have without it. So in a week to a month that acne would have popped up regardless but this way it comes to the surface and heals a lot faster. While acne post treatment can be viewed as a risk it actually can be considered a benefit as well depending on how you look at it. The final big risk, that is very rare, is a chance of small cuts on the skin due to the extremely sharp blade used. It is however not common because professionals are specially trained and must practice on 50+ models in school before even being able to get their license. Big cuts are even more rare and occurs mainly when the client moves unexpectedly during a treatment. Even still these cuts are barely visible after 24 hours and practically healed after 48 as long as proper dermaplane aftercare is followed.

Overall my professional opinion is that receiving dermaplaning in-salon has better skin benefits and less risk. However, I would never shame a client for using the tinkle razors at home if you feel that is a better option for you after getting all the information. Just be sure to take your time, don’t use a lot of pressure, and take care when you are dermaplaning at home.